Thursday, February 18, 2010
In case you'd like to stalk me further...
Check out my buddy Rochelle's blog @ www.writingoutloud.tumblr.com She's volunteering here as well - she's a great writer, photographer, and friend. DEFINITELY check out the first two videos...see what we do on rainy days here in Memel. xo
Friday, February 5, 2010
Wednesday, February 3, 2010
Weekend in Pretoria: Boers, Braais, and being back in Brooklyn
Sometimes a girl's gotta let loose.
After two weeks in sleepy Memel, where the average age is 65, we vibrant young people were craving some action. We hit the road to Pretoria with eager smiles and a definitive plan to show South Africa's administrative capital what was up.
We were successful.
Founded in 1841 by Boers (roughly, Dutch cowboys) seeking independence from England's rule, Pretoria has a mottled past. It was the site from which apartheid would be run, and for many years served as a poster child for white supremacy. However, with the 90's came the fall of institutionalized segregration, and today Pretoria is jubilant proof that radical change is possible. The Pretoria of the 21st century is a bustling, beautiful, multicultural metropolis, chock-a-block full of museums, markets, and universities...not to mention a bumpin' nightlife.
Enter the Memel crew. We quickly latched onto a couple of friendly black students in the town's centre (named Brooklyn, naturally) and asked them to show us where the good spots were. They surveyed the six of us, rolled their eyes, and begrudgingly took us to the whitest bar in town.
"No, NOOOO!!!!" we cried, amongst the throng of inebriated Afrikaaners unrhythmically gyrating their way through "Come On Eileen". "We want to go where YOU go out." The girls laughed, "Why didn't you say so in the first place?!" and within moments we found ourselves on the black side of the square, the only white people in a packed VIP lounge, bustin' a move to some of the best beats I've ever heard.
Rochelle and I grin at each other. Now THIS is more like it.
Saturday morning found us to be poor company indeed, but we slugged back some joe and forged our way to the museums. Pretoria's art scene is reminiscent of D.C's...if DC had decided not to update their exhibits after 1972. Bizarre and entertaining, I can best liken it to the Christmas window display at Bergdorf Goodman.
Strangely, the Earth's original atmosphere smelt exactly like the museum's...
Watch out Logan! There's a giant light up crab behind you!!!

A cheetah rips the head off a monkey. Notice the careful attention to detail.

A cobra that spits venom when you push a button? Okay Wit, that's enough...let's get outta here.
But the real treat came later that evening, when we attended our first braai at Cindy's friends' house. Braai is the South African term for BBQ, and no one barbeques like the Afrikaaners.

Hors d'ouvres: biltong, gherkins, and marinated artichoke hearts

The national drink: The Springbok

Broerewors, kebabs, lamb chops, and an entire pig, I'm convinced.

Nevil - a true blooded, uber progressive Boer. Every copper bracelet he wears represents an amazing memory of Africa.
On the car ride home the next day, I digested the weekend. Don't get me wrong - Pretoria is a city with problems. The crime rate is through the roof, and many institutions remain singularly race identified. But it's also home to a growing liberal population, a place where racial equality is gaining hold and affluence is no longer only a white word. In a country still cutting it's democratic teeth, Pretoria is a step in the right direction. And I'm excited to see it's continued growth in the coming years.
Monday, January 25, 2010
Teacher's Pet
I know it's unprofessional to have favorites, but well...I have a favorite.
Her name is LaPenge, she's in my first grade class, and she can most accurately be described as A Hot Mess.
Every day, the first grade girls line up on the benches before practice: excited, bashful, orderly. And everyday, approximately 15 minutes late, LaPenge comes tearing over the hill - limbs akimbo, backpack undone, hair standing straight on end.
She never wears her soccer uniform. She doesn't understand a word I'm saying. She can't seem to button her shirt correctly, and when she sits...well, it's kind of like watching jello sit - everything just sorta goes everywhere.
But therein lies LaPenge's charm: she simply doesn't care.
It's a quality we all possess at some point in our lives - we're born into this world perfect, without judgement or defenses. As we get older, we tend to lose track of our innate sense of self...it gets covered up by our developed egos, we become conscious of the way we look and act..
LaPenge has managed to hold onto this innocence, this uninhibited self, longer than the other girls her age. While they are posing for the camera, making serious faces, LaPenge is off in the corner, busy contemplating her naval.
I love her for how oblivious she is, how uncensored. But the real clincher comes when you call her name and she turns to you, a look of sheer, unadulterated joy plastered across her face. It makes me laugh out loud, every time. This girl IS Love - it radiates from her every pore, unsullied and without opposite. I may be her teacher, but I think there's a lot I can learn from little LaPenge.
Friday, January 22, 2010
Monday, January 18, 2010
South Africa: a week, abridged.
Sorry for the lack of communication so far, everybody - turns out there's no WiFi in bush country. I'm gonna try my darnedest to post on here at least once a week, hopefully more. For now, bear with me as I attempt to condense a ridiculous week into a coherent post...
South Africa. Heavily westernized, but just outside the booming sprawl of Johannesburg lie miles and miles of verdant, rolling fields, not completely unlike the farmlands of the Midwest where I grew up. After a bleary 16 hour flight, we trundled our way three hours via car, climbing to an elevation of 5000 feet and our new home: Memel (pronounced MEEamull).
Memel is a tiny speck of a town, not easily found on the map or the internet (try googling it, seriously). Once heavily ruled by the laws of apartheid, the hangover has been severe - the town remains predominantly white, save for my two roommates, refugees from Zimbabwe who work the same non-profit as me.
The neighboring township, Zamani, is separated from Memel by a small field, it's population totaling roughly 7,000 black Africans. The interaction between whites and blacks is cordial and entirely work related, with many of the black still referring to whites as "boss". Memel, though it may be small, is a strong reflection of much of the Rainbow Nation - although one of the most diverse countries in the world, it remains severely segregated.
So you can imagine the reaction when six strangers blow into town on a sleepy Tuesday morning - one Korean, one Indian, three New Yorkers, a native Vermonter. This first week was mainly about getting acclimated. The creators of the nonprofit, Cindy & Steven, are two very radical beings, completely out of place in their oppressive surroundings. The goal of their non profit, SheWins, is to empower the young girls of Zamani through sports and teamwork - two things they've little knowledge of up until now. Cindy & Steven's eventual goal is to create a fully integrated, harmonically diverse community out of Memel, built on a solid foundation of sustainable principles.
Over dinner our first night in Africa, Cindy asked us what our personal and professional goals were. I'll be teaching soccer, tennis and yoga to girls age 6 thru 15, while also involving myself in all the sustainable methods offered. Personally, well...it's a chance to explore an incredible new place, fully immerse myself in a foreign culture, and contribute to something that will change many people's lives.
If I could sum up the week in a few highlights, it would be: the sheer joy of eating here. Every meal in Memel is cooked as a family, and Cindy's garden is the finest I've ever seen - all organic, built using permacultural methods, and right at tour feet - just walk out the front door and pick your meal.
The Team. Cindy, Steven, Logan, Hillary, Nayeon, Rochelle, and Sophie. Seven very chill people from very different backgrounds, all eager to be here, excited to help, and up for anything.
The day we were introduced to the kids. Standing on stage while 800 mouths cheer you on, 800 pairs of hands applauding the reason you're here, was by far the coolest moment of my life to date. The enthusiasm of the girls was so genuine, so contagious, that i found myself cheering along with them, and the importance of what we're doing here hit me - we're not just teaching these girls sports, we're helping them realize their full potential - that they're strong, capable, equal human beings, boundless in their abilities and rights.
P.S. When I told the assembly I hailed from New York City, I got the greatest response of all. Represent.
South Africa. Heavily westernized, but just outside the booming sprawl of Johannesburg lie miles and miles of verdant, rolling fields, not completely unlike the farmlands of the Midwest where I grew up. After a bleary 16 hour flight, we trundled our way three hours via car, climbing to an elevation of 5000 feet and our new home: Memel (pronounced MEEamull).
Memel is a tiny speck of a town, not easily found on the map or the internet (try googling it, seriously). Once heavily ruled by the laws of apartheid, the hangover has been severe - the town remains predominantly white, save for my two roommates, refugees from Zimbabwe who work the same non-profit as me.
The neighboring township, Zamani, is separated from Memel by a small field, it's population totaling roughly 7,000 black Africans. The interaction between whites and blacks is cordial and entirely work related, with many of the black still referring to whites as "boss". Memel, though it may be small, is a strong reflection of much of the Rainbow Nation - although one of the most diverse countries in the world, it remains severely segregated.
So you can imagine the reaction when six strangers blow into town on a sleepy Tuesday morning - one Korean, one Indian, three New Yorkers, a native Vermonter. This first week was mainly about getting acclimated. The creators of the nonprofit, Cindy & Steven, are two very radical beings, completely out of place in their oppressive surroundings. The goal of their non profit, SheWins, is to empower the young girls of Zamani through sports and teamwork - two things they've little knowledge of up until now. Cindy & Steven's eventual goal is to create a fully integrated, harmonically diverse community out of Memel, built on a solid foundation of sustainable principles.
Over dinner our first night in Africa, Cindy asked us what our personal and professional goals were. I'll be teaching soccer, tennis and yoga to girls age 6 thru 15, while also involving myself in all the sustainable methods offered. Personally, well...it's a chance to explore an incredible new place, fully immerse myself in a foreign culture, and contribute to something that will change many people's lives.
If I could sum up the week in a few highlights, it would be: the sheer joy of eating here. Every meal in Memel is cooked as a family, and Cindy's garden is the finest I've ever seen - all organic, built using permacultural methods, and right at tour feet - just walk out the front door and pick your meal.
The Team. Cindy, Steven, Logan, Hillary, Nayeon, Rochelle, and Sophie. Seven very chill people from very different backgrounds, all eager to be here, excited to help, and up for anything.
The day we were introduced to the kids. Standing on stage while 800 mouths cheer you on, 800 pairs of hands applauding the reason you're here, was by far the coolest moment of my life to date. The enthusiasm of the girls was so genuine, so contagious, that i found myself cheering along with them, and the importance of what we're doing here hit me - we're not just teaching these girls sports, we're helping them realize their full potential - that they're strong, capable, equal human beings, boundless in their abilities and rights.
P.S. When I told the assembly I hailed from New York City, I got the greatest response of all. Represent.
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